Bearded Dragon Temperature?

I've just have my 6 week old beardy today. My vivarium is 36" depth 18" high 15" diameter.
The vivarium come with everything required but my temp doesn't seem to be right. It is only 75 degree at its hottest in the middle of the vivarium. The bayonet bulb is 60 watt and so is the UVB neutral.
How can I raise the temp? Do I inevitability to get a better bulb wattage? Will this change the bask area as all right?
Answers: Okay, your basking spot should be around 105F. You might entail a 75W or 100W bulb to achieve this.

The cooler side of your container needs to be around 80F.

Stick on and dial type thermometers aren't accurate adequate. You can get a digital indoor/outdoor therm. for around $10-15 at WalMart. The verbs end should be directly on the bask surface.

The higher watt bulb should increase the temp overall, but if you bring back your basking temp up and the cooler side is still too cool, you can capture a second, lower wattage bulb for the cooler side.
Example, I have a 75W bulb that keep the basking site @ ~102F, and I hold to keep a 60W on the other side to hold on to those temps up to 80F.

I'm concerned because you got a vivarium "kit" because pet stores get rid of things that are actually HARMFUL to your beardie. Like Calci-Sand, or Repti-Sand or any other particulate substrate. These are dicey! They clump into solid hard common herd when moist, so if accidentally ingested, that solid mass will be in your beardie's intestines and end in SERIOUS impaction.
It's best to use paper towels, broadsheet, non-adhesive shelf liner, or slate tiles (or other types of tiles as long as they are not "slick")

Also, your UVB light...is it the coil type? Because that type is VERY damaging to your beardie. If you have this, I would suggest you whip it out right away, as it's better for him to have NO UVB for a few days than to hold that bulb!
ReptiGLO 10.0 has also be proven to emit rays bad for you to beardies eyes. ReptiGLO 8.0 is okay and ReptiSUN 10.0 is great. They cost a lot contained by stores, but you can order one online for $20.

Please call on http://www.beardeddragon.org for some great care sheets and pop in their forums for loads of great advice from experienced handler!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearded_dra...

A 20 gallon long aquarium is the bare minimum for a juvenile Bearded Dragon. For an full-size the minimum is a 40 breeder, though this is small. Generally the minimum should be 2 × their STL (Stretched Total ) length for the length, 1 × the STL for the width and 1 × the STL for the altitude, this will be about a 4' × 2'× 2' for a considerable Dragon. The cage should be at least possible 16" wide to avoid problems turning.

Bearded Dragons approaching to bask on rocks, and they use the edges of rocks to shed their skin. It is important that nearby is at least one or two obedient "basking rocks" within the Dragon's habitat. Only naturally formed prevailing conditions to large rocks (such as those found within backyards, woods, etc) should be used, as electric or battery-operated powered heating devices such as HotRocksTM can rationale stomach burns and flesh tearing on Bearded Dragons and pretty much adjectives basking reptiles, especially babies.

In accumulation to basking and shedding, the other intention for having at smallest one large rock surrounded by the Dragon's habitat is to successfully simulate its natural habitat. Most Bearded Dragons come from desert environments, which bring cooler by night. Bearded Dragons have need of a rock they can burrow under to sleep for the dark, to give them shade and coolness.

In accumulation to rocks, Bearded Dragons need things to fur, burrow, and play in. Holey logs, sold surrounded by pet shops, are ideal for this. Caves or shelters should not be put surrounded by with Bearded dragons until they are full size. Juvenile Bearded Dragons tend to stay contained by their shelter and not come out, which means they would not bring back enough lantern for proper growth.

Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A UVB pale is needed, with two option being available. Fluorescent strip bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs. An example of a correct brand of fluorescent bulbs is Repti-Sun 10.0, which needs to be 6-10 inches away. The Repti-Sun 5.0 desires to be 4-6 inches away, the Repti-Glo 8.0 that needs to be 4-6" away, and the Repti-Glo 10.0 that wants to be 6-10 inches away. These bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. The owner should build sure to buy a strip bulb, not a compact. This is because the compacts wear out in nearly 1 month. Fluorescent bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. For mercury vapor the two best are the T-rex UV roast and the Megray (reptileuv.com) They each are equal output and are 3-4x stronger than the best fluorescent. A 100 watt should be 10-12 inches away minimum, the 160 should be 16-18" minimum and the other wattages should be listed when you buy it. They final 6-12 months. All bulbs are cheaper online. Without a good UVB your Dragon will develop MBD and not drink much.

For basking, Beardies have need of bright white light. If a colored bulb is used, they will guzzle less and seem to be sick.

Temperature is another important form factor. A Dragon needs correct warmth to digest, so a good thermometer is essential. Analog, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not consider basking warmth properly and can be inaccurate by as much as 20 degree. A digital thermometer with a verbs or a tempgun are two recommended types. Temps need to be 95-110 during light of day and 60-80 at night (the highly developed end of this scope for babies, the lower portion of the range for full-grown Dragons).
get a 100 wat night light that fits over the whole coop make sure it is uv and also capture a table lamp for bask


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