Questions just about charitable for mexican milk snake..?

My son got a Mexican milk snake.. We get the snake a good size aquarium, heat lamp, heat pad, a immense type rock that turned upside down to sleep in and a immense rock shaped water bowl... Would it hurt to put made-up like branches or actual ones for him to climb up on..?. we have artificial reefs in within right now... We be told when we bought the snake that he only eat once a week and to only nurture him one frozen fuzzy.. We wasn't told awhole lot about how to fastidiousness for him... How many hours a year or night do we maintain the heating oil lamp on? Do they like alot of attention? What things should we avoid the snake individual around? we don't want to upset him or anything.. What does it mean when soon he is real relaxed on your arm and looking around and the subsequent day he is wanting to coil around your foot alot and feels sort of tight. and own they been prearranged to bite anyone? how long can they live up too? We just want to present the snake the best care that we can.. we appericate any warning u may have.
Answers: ok wow lots of question, i will do my best!

fake branches will be fine, these are honest as they are easy to verbs, real ones are fine too, but you hold to be careful on which type of tree they are from as some are toxic, the lone real ones i use are from fruit trees, i use apple. you will own to clean them first you can do this by slowly baking it at a markedly low temp for a few hours, or soak it in Milton newborn steriliser and then rinsing it over and over again.

Once a week feed is fine, you will have to alter the amount/size of the prey as he grows, you can let somebody know when they want more because after feeding they will still be mooching around looking for more. just ever feed him prey items that are no bigger than the fattest section of his body. its a bit of trial and error, if you feel he requests more than one, then try him beside another, you do run the risk of him refusing and later you have a mouse i.e. no good that wishes to be disposed of (i put them in a few nappy sack in the bin!)

I presume you know the temps that this species requirements to be kept at, if not you can google hunt milk snake care sheets to find out. As for how long, i usually travel by the natural daytime light hours.

If the snake is topical to his home i would leave handeling to a minimum for the first 2 weeks, permit him settle in. next you can start introducing yourself to him, the key is slow and steady. i wouldn't suggest long handeling period even when he is used to you, this can stress him out, about 10mins a daylight should be ok thought.

He coils around your hand for one of 2 things, any he is telling you he is hungry or for guarantee. Snakes have moods purely like empire, and over time you will learn to read his mood.

All snakes will bite if prevoked, some hold more persuading than others, milk snakes are known to be lawfully placid and so won't bite if you don't give him foundation to! no sudden movements around him etc.

He will live for a long long time, i am not sure the average captive age of milk snakes but i am betting its 15 yrs plus!

near are some excellent caresheets out there, hold fun researching and good luck xx
Milksnakes are kept at impossible to tell apart temperatures and conditions of most colubrids resembling cornsnakes, kingsnakes and ratsnakes. Warm side should be around the mid 80's, the cool side in the low to mid 70's. I put physical and fake plants surrounded by my snake's cages. Pothos holds up best to substantial bodies and low light. The snake should other have fry on. I prefer under cistern heaters to heat lamp. They are safer as far as burn/fire hazard, and they don't dry the atmosphere so much. Make sure you get a thermostat to regulate the warmth. An unregulated heat source can create reasonably a hot spot in the cistern. As said, you can feed one frozen/thawed fuzzy a week, leisurely increasing in food size as obligatory. My adults are only feed every 2-3 weeks. Obese snakes are not pretty! Make sure you feed out of the container if you have substrate except paper towels, hold carpet, or tabloid. Impaction can occur if they ingest substrate along near the food. As any wild animal, snakes can bite. They are usually superficial and relatively painless. If you are bitten, verbs the area near soap and water and it should be fine. Most of the bites I've gotten be in response to feed. Not all snakes resembling attention, as a matter of reality, most don't. I have found that copious tolerate handling well and give the impression of being to do fine with it and savour the stimulus of being out. Most convict bred snakes do very capably with handling and break down quickly. A jailbird bred, well care for snake can live over 20 years so expect to have your pet for a while. Most colubrids are comparatively hardy and rarely own health problems. However, you should check around to find out who treats reptiles close at hand you. It can be difficult to find exotic vets within some states, and veterinary care is sector of pet ownership responsibility. You might check out www.cornsnakes.com for more information on care. Although it's geared toward cornsnakes, the precision of your milksnake will be the same and most of the counsel there will pertain to your animal as resourcefully. Enjoy! They're addictive!


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